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Lab-Grown Diamond & Moissanite Rings, Crafted for Timeless Love
Everything you need to know about the marquise cut.
Marquise Cut FAQs
What is a marquise cut diamond?
The marquise cut is an elongated brilliant cut diamond with pointed ends on both sides, producing a silhouette often compared to an eye, a football, or a boat. The cut typically features 58 facets and produces strong fire and brilliance similar to round and oval brilliants. The marquise has a longer face up size per carat than any other diamond shape, making it one of the most visually generous cuts in fine jewellery. Currently growing in popularity after a quieter period in the early 2000s, marquise is increasingly chosen for engagement rings that prioritise visual impact and finger lengthening effect.
Why is marquise called the eye or football shape?
The pointed ends and curved sides of a marquise produce a silhouette that resembles a stylised eye, a football, or a small boat depending on the orientation. The actual name comes from French royal history: the cut was commissioned in the 1740s by King Louis XV of France, who wanted a diamond shaped like the smile of his mistress, the Marquise Madame de Pompadour. The name marquise refers to the noble rank she held, and the cut has carried that aristocratic association for nearly three centuries.
What is the ideal length to width ratio for a marquise?
The classic marquise range is 1.75 to 2.25, with 1.85 to 2.00 representing the most balanced and widely admired proportion. A ratio below 1.75 reads as a stubby marquise that loses the cut's signature elegance. A ratio above 2.25 reads as overly elongated and can appear fragile. The most balanced 1.85 to 2.00 range produces a marquise that maximises face up size without sacrificing visual proportion. Our designer walks clients through the ratio decision based on hand shape and personal preference during consultation.
How important is the bow tie effect on a marquise?
Critical. Marquise shows a more pronounced bow tie effect than any other elongated shape, including oval and pear, because the pointed ends and long curves create more potential for light leakage through the pavilion. A well cut marquise shows a faint, almost invisible bow tie. A poorly cut marquise shows a heavy, persistent dark shadow that dominates the centre of the stone. There is no certificate grade that captures bow tie performance, which is why our gemologist examines every shortlisted marquise in daylight conditions before presenting to clients.
How do you protect the two points of a marquise?
Both pointed ends of a marquise are vulnerable to chipping if struck against a hard surface. We strongly recommend V claw (chevron prong) settings at both points, which cradle and protect each tip while distributing impact away from the vulnerable edges. Standard claw settings with a single prong at each point leave the tips exposed and are not recommended for daily wear. Bezel and half bezel settings around the points also work beautifully and produce a particularly modern silhouette. Our designer ensures point protection is built into every marquise engagement ring as a baseline design principle.
What is the history of the marquise cut?
The marquise originated in 1745 when King Louis XV of France commissioned a diamond cutter to create a stone shaped to honour his mistress, the Marquise Madame de Pompadour. The original commission was for the cut to resemble her smile. The shape was an immediate court success and became associated with French aristocracy. After centuries of varying popularity, marquise enjoyed a major revival in the 1980s as a defining engagement ring shape, then declined in the 2000s, and is now returning to prominence in the 2020s as buyers rediscover its dramatic face up size and elegant silhouette.
What setting style works best for a marquise cut?
Marquise suits a range of settings, all of which prioritise point protection. The classic six claw solitaire (with V claws at both points) is the most traditional and the most flattering to the marquise outline. Hidden halo settings amplify the marquise silhouette without distracting from the stone. Three stone settings with pear or half moon side stones produce a regal, vintage inflected look. East west orientation (marquise lying horizontally across the finger) has grown in popularity recently as a contemporary alternative to the traditional vertical orientation. Toi et moi configurations pairing marquise with pear or oval are also increasingly seen.
Does VYOR offer marquise engagement rings in moissanite?
Yes. Every VYOR marquise cut design is available in lab grown diamond or D colour, VVS1 clarity moissanite. D VVS1 is the highest commercially available moissanite grade and the only grade VYOR offers, with no exceptions. Marquise moissanite delivers the dramatic face up size that defines the shape at a significantly lower price point than lab grown diamond, making it an excellent choice for clients seeking maximum visual presence within a particular budget.
The marquise cut is the engagement ring shape with the most dramatic face up size and one of the richest histories in fine jewellery. At VYOR, every marquise cut engagement ring is designed in Perth, set with a GIA or IGI certified lab grown diamond personally reviewed by our gemologist, or with D VVS1 moissanite, and finished in Western Australia by our team of senior master jewellers.
Custom Marquise Cut Engagement Rings at VYOR
Marquise is the engagement ring shape of bold elegance. Commissioned by French royalty in the 1740s and worn through three centuries as a signature of aristocratic taste, the marquise delivers the largest face up presence of any diamond cut, the most flattering finger lengthening effect, and a silhouette unlike any other shape in fine jewellery. Currently enjoying a major revival, marquise is increasingly chosen by clients who want a ring with genuine visual impact and a distinctive aesthetic point of view.
Every signature design in our marquise collection is available in lab grown diamond or D VVS1 moissanite, and in 18k white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum. If your vision sits outside the existing collection, our design team creates custom marquise engagement rings from scratch alongside you, with the same three to five week delivery timeframe.
Curated by Our Gemologist, Designed by Our Designer
Every VYOR consultation is led personally by the founders. Our gemologist, Joseph, reviews every shortlisted marquise diamond himself. For marquise specifically, this means examining bow tie performance in daylight (the most pronounced of any elongated shape), confirming exact symmetry between the two pointed ends and the two curved sides, verifying the points align precisely on the same axis, and reviewing depth percentage to ensure the stone spreads face up rather than hiding weight inside the ring.
Our designer, Nikolett, directs every setting decision and every aesthetic choice in the studio. For marquise, she works with you on the orientation (traditional vertical, contemporary east west, or diagonal), the point protection configuration (V claws at both ends, or bezel around the tips), the length to width ratio for your hand, and the relationship between the marquise's curves and the band proportions. The right setting for a marquise protects both points while honouring the dramatic outline.
Read more about the founders on our About page.
How to Choose a Marquise Cut Diamond, A Gemologist's Guide
Marquise is the most technically demanding popular shape in fine jewellery. The combination of pointed ends, long curved sides, and pronounced bow tie potential means small differences between stones can produce dramatically different finished rings. Five things our gemologist looks at on every marquise at VYOR.
Symmetry
The two pointed ends must align exactly on the same axis, the two curved sides must mirror each other perfectly, and the centre of the stone must be precisely between the two points. Asymmetry in a marquise is more visible than in any other shape because the elongated silhouette leaves no room for irregularity to hide. We review symmetry under the loupe on every shortlisted stone before presenting.
Bow tie performance
Marquise shows the most pronounced bow tie of any shape. We examine every shortlisted stone in daylight, not under jeweller's lighting, to confirm the bow tie is minimal and disappears in normal wear. Stones with severe bow tie are not presented to clients regardless of certificate grade.
Length to width ratio
The classic marquise range is 1.75 to 2.25, with 1.85 to 2.00 producing the most balanced proportion. Different ratios suit different hand shapes and aesthetic preferences. The decision is part of the consultation, settled before stone selection begins.
Point alignment and protection
The two points must align on the same axis (not offset to either side), and the angle of each point should be approximately matched. The setting must include V claws or bezel protection at both tips to ensure long term durability. We do not present stones where the points are visibly offset or unevenly angled.
Colour, the VYOR D to G standard
VYOR works with D, E, F, and G colour exclusively for marquise. The pointed ends of a marquise show colour more readily than the centre, similar to how oval tips and pear points concentrate colour. Within the D to G range, marquise faces up consistently colourless under any light condition. On clarity, VS1 and above ensures no inclusions visible to the naked eye in any marquise we sell.
These are the five factors our gemologist walks through in every consultation. The certificate is the starting point, not the conclusion.
The VYOR Process
Every VYOR custom engagement ring follows the same four stage process.
Consultation
A private 45 minute session at our Wembley showroom in Perth, or a 30 minute secure video call for clients anywhere in Australia. You meet both founders. Our gemologist walks through stone options, certificate review, and the gemological criteria specific to marquise (symmetry, bow tie, points, ratio). Our designer discusses orientation, point protection, and aesthetic choices for the wearer. Together the founders present a curated shortlist of certified stones in your carat and budget range.
Design
Once your stone and setting direction are confirmed, our design team produces a detailed 3D CAD model of your ring. You review and approve every element (band width, stone height, V claw configuration, finish, metal) before crafting begins.
Crafting
Your ring is finished in Perth by our team of senior master jewellers, using 100% recycled gold or platinum. Most custom marquise engagement rings are completed within three to five weeks of design approval, faster than the Australian industry standard of six to eight weeks.
Delivery
Your finished ring is presented in person at the Wembley showroom, or dispatched anywhere in Australia by fully insured express courier with signature on delivery.
The VYOR Difference
Every VYOR engagement ring is built on the same eight commitments, regardless of shape, setting, or stone.
Australia Wide Express Shipping
Free, fully insured express delivery to Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, and every Australian regional postcode. Every order ships from Perth with signature on delivery, at no cost.
Complimentary Ring Resizing
Free resizing on every VYOR engagement ring within the first 60 days, ensuring a perfect fit whether you have chosen a custom design or a Ready to Ship piece. Resizing beyond 60 days is available at cost.
Lifetime Manufacturing Warranty
Every VYOR engagement ring carries a lifetime manufacturing warranty against defects in materials or workmanship, giving you complete peace of mind that your ring is crafted to last for generations.
Custom Ring Design Service
From signature collection adjustments to fully bespoke pieces, our designer creates one of a kind engagement rings that reflect your story, with concept to completion managed in house in our Wembley studio.
Designed and Crafted in Perth, Western Australia
Every ring is designed in our studio and finished by hand by senior master jewellers, never mass produced and never finished offshore. Australian craftsmanship from first sketch to final polish.
Conflict Free Lab Grown Stones
Every diamond and moissanite at VYOR is lab grown and conflict free, with GIA or IGI certification on every lab grown diamond and D VVS1 specification on every moissanite, no exceptions.
Recycled Gold and Platinum
Every ring is crafted in 100% recycled 18k gold or platinum, supporting responsible material sourcing and reducing the environmental impact of new metal mining.
Consultations with Our Founders
Every consultation is led personally by VYOR's gemologist and designer, never by a sales team, ensuring expert guidance from the people who set the brand's standards.
Where We Serve
VYOR's showroom is located in Wembley, Perth, Western Australia, and we deliver custom marquise engagement rings to clients across the country, including Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Canberra, Hobart, Darwin, and every regional postcode. For interstate clients, our private virtual consultation by secure video offers the same experience as visiting the Wembley showroom in person. All Australia wide orders ship free, fully insured, and express, with signature on delivery.
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